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Act like a diva at the Kunsthal

Over sixty looks and costume designs by world-renowned designers, which have been worn by Maria Callas, Josephine Baker, Marilyn Monroe, Tina Turner, Shirley Bassey, Cher, Elton John, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Björk and Billie Eilish, among others, will be on display in the DIVA exhibition at the Kunsthal from 26 October. The exhibition celebrates the unparalleled power and boundless, feminine creativity of iconic artists.

The exhibition shows how divas pushed boundaries with their performing arts and created a lasting impact in society. DIVA takes visitors into the universe of opera goddesses from the nineteenth century to the contemporary pop and rock 'n roll culture of global superstars.

The exhibition zooms in on the meaning of the term diva, originally meaning goddess. Over the years, the term has been cherished, repelled and reclaimed and embraced by performance culture, as a status to be proud of. Costumes, designer looks, personal objects, photographs, videos and a musical experience guide visitors through an immersive exhibition design by Studio Harm Rensink.

Marianne Splint, director Kunsthal Rotterdam, on the exhibition DIVA: "In the exhibition DIVA, we focus on a phenomenon, on a concept that not only carries cultural baggage, but also serves as a source of creative power. It is a great starting point for a spectacular exhibition that we are now proud to present to our wide audience."

Opera goddesses

The first part of the exhibition focuses on the historical context of the diva. For instance, the term was used in the nineteenth century to describe exceptional, female opera singers. Costumes of early opera stars such as Adelina Patti and Jenny Lind are on display, as well as the impressive ensemble of 'La Divina' Maria Callas from the opera production Norma (1952). Against a backdrop of changing views on femininity, power and creativity, these women conquered the stage and campaigned for equality.

At the same time, they were criticised for being off the beaten track. Handwritten texts, video clips and classic costumes show how actresses in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including leading British Shakespeare interpreter Ellen Terry and Dutch-French theatre legend Sarah Bernhardt, drove the first wave of feminism. It also reveals how divas such as Josephine Baker, Elizabeth Taylor, Mae West, Vivien Leigh and Marilyn Monroe shaped popular culture.

Maria Callas as Violette in La Traviata. Photo: Houston Rogers © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

The evolution of the diva

In the second part of the exhibition, visitors enter a new world celebrating today's diva. Highlights include costumes by Cher and P!nk, Tina Turner's famous 'flame dress' - designed by US designer Bob Mackie - and Shirley Bassey's pink Julien Macdonald dress (including diamond-encrusted rubber boots), worn during a concert at Glastonbury.

In this section, DIVA highlights how these contemporary artists have built on the foundations of previous generations and pioneered in an originally male-dominated film and music world. Status, power and freedom The exhibition features no fewer than five iconic looks by Rihanna, including her Pope-inspired Maison Margiela dress designed by John Galliano and her all-black Balenciaga look. The singer appeared in these breathtaking creations on the steps of the Met Gala in New York in 2018 and 2021.

The exhibition points out how modern divas are emerging as astute businesswomen, taking control of their image. Rihanna's make-up brand Fenty Beauty and Dolly Parton's poseable doll are just a few examples of how divas extended their musical influence into the business world. Barbra Streisand is also featured. In 1983, for instance, she managed to become the first woman to write, produce, direct and star in her own film. Flyers, posters and video clips also show how revolutionary artists such as Billy Holiday and Nina Simone spoke out against racism with their songs, and brought about political and social change with their voices.

Male artists too

DIVA shows Lady Gaga's ice blue ball gown, which she wore to the 2019 Golden Globes, and Björk's gold floral dress, both by fashion house Valentino. With spectacular performances, outspoken music videos and extravagant costumes, these artists show they are not afraid of transformation and keep challenging the established norm. Billie Eilish's 'blue meanies' outfit designed by Stella McCartney also passes the review. This is how the young singer has become a global icon with her raw, honest lyrics and outspoken street style.

Sir Elton John's Louis XIV-inspired look - which the singer wore on his fiftieth birthday - illustrates that male artists too can subscribe to the term diva. Using Lil Nas X's lilac Versace suit and Prince's heels, the audience was introduced to artists who broke established gender patterns with their performances and looks.

That the status that artists have achieved with their performing arts also brings with it a dark side, the exhibition shows through Whitney Houston's look - the black-and-gold dress in which she received three Grammys for the soundtrack of the film The Bodyguard - Amy Winehouse's bright yellow dress and Edith Piaf's dressing gown and personal objects. This is how it can sometimes be lonely at the top as a solo artist. The fame and success of these divas inspire fans from all over the world, but also arouse an insatiable curiosity about their personal lives, greatly affecting their privacy.

Cher, Elton John and Diana Ross at Rock Awards Santa Monica Civic Auditorium 1975. Photo: Mark Sullivan Contour by Getty Images

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